Gourmet Flavours

2026

Izmir Tables

What to do in Balçova and İnciraltı, Izmir's thermal shore

The cable car is 200 ₺, the thermal pools run at 34 to 41°C, two forests sit on the water, and the fish houses are on İnciraltı Cad. Hours and closed days are for 2026.

By Joris van der Velde8 min read

The first cabin up the Balçova slope leaves at 12:30 and a ride costs 200 ₺, with the top station terrace standing at 316 m above the Gulf of İzmir. Below it, water comes out of the ground between 34 and 41°C. On the İnciraltı shore, a grey decommissioned frigate and a black submarine lie alongside a short quay with the gangway down.

The cable car above Balçova

İzmir Teleferik in Balçova, signposted as Balçova Teleferik, lifts small enclosed gondola cabins on a single cable over apartment blocks and pine-covered hillside. From the terrace at the top you look straight down the Gulf of İzmir. It is the cheapest wide view in the city, and worth doing before anything else here.

İzmir Teleferik (Balçova Teleferik), Izmir

Tickets are 200 ₺ per person, bought at the lower station, and under-fives ride free. Walk up; they take no reservations. Cabins seat small parties, and school and club groups ride in sequence.

They do not take cash. Pay by card or with an İzmirim Kart. The line closes Mondays and the first cabin of the day is 12:30, so keep the ride for the afternoon.

Breakfast and gözleme on the Teleferik slope

Teleferik Kır Bahçesi (on the cable-car slope, Balçova) is an old village house terraced down through the pines, with low wooden tables, one terrace facing the sea and one facing the dam lake. Gözleme is rolled and griddled to order, and mantı comes out of the same kitchen. On the upper level you grill your own meat at the table on a tabletop barbecue. A children's play area runs alongside the terraces. It costs 500 to 750 ₺ a person and stays open until 23:00, which pairs it with the cable car in either direction.

Teleferik Kır Bahçesi, Izmir

Nobili Park Balçova, also on the Teleferik slope, lays out the unlimited serpme breakfast that locals drive up for, dozens of small dishes on a sea-facing terrace. You are in the city and in the trees at once. Breakfast service runs 08:30 to 18:00, and the kitchen also does lunch and dinner, at 500 to 750 ₺ a person. A log fire burns indoors in winter. Come in cold weather and sit inside.

Nobili Park Balçova, Izmir

Thermal water at the foot of the hill

Balçova Termal in Balçova, the Agamemnon thermal springs, is the reason the district is here at all. The springs are 2,500 years old, and Pausanias tied them to Agamemnon's soldiers. Steaming open-air pools sit in a palm-dotted park of 176,000 m² at the foot of a bare hillside, and in winter the bathers sit in the water under low mist.

Balçova Termal (Agamemnon Thermal Springs), Izmir

Day-use entry to the thermal pool is 1,250 ₺ per person for 120 minutes. Book ahead, because some pools rotate out for maintenance and you want to know what is open before you travel. The last day-use entry is 17:00, so this is a morning or early-afternoon plan, not an evening one. The attached hotel takes the day-use bookings.

Walking and cycling the İnciraltı shore

İnciraltı seafront promenade (Haydar Aliyev Bulvarı) runs from Üçkuyular pier west to Yenikale point. This was once the city's main public beach and works now as a walking and cycling corridor, with a separated red cycle lane, fig trees and tea tables facing the Gulf, and fishing boats drawn up on the shingle. Benches, tea gardens and parking line the whole stretch, and the shore is public, so anyone can walk onto it.

The 1666 Yenikale fort, also called Sancakburnu, sits at the far western end inside a working military zone and cannot be visited. Walk to the point for the water, not for the fort.

İnciraltı Kent Ormanı (Yenikale headland) is flat shaded woodland right on the shoreline, with stone-and-timber bridges over dry channels and bikes on tarmac paths. Gulf water shows between the trunks. It was the city's first city forest. Entry is free and unticketed, the car park is free, and the gates shut to new arrivals after midnight. Barbecues are now banned, so bring a picnic and leave the charcoal at home.

İnciraltı Kent Ormanı, Izmir

The museum ships and the amphitheatre

İnciraltı Deniz Müzesi in İnciraltı puts you aboard the Ege frigate and then squeezes you through the Piri Reis submarine, with ship models and brass instruments in the hall ashore. Entry is free for children and nominal for adults. It is good with children, and it closes Mondays, the same day as the cable car. Large parties should phone ahead on 0232 278 52 34, since school groups are the main audience.

İnciraltı Deniz Müzesi (İzmir Museum Ships), Izmir

İnciraltı Açıkhava Tiyatrosu (Haydar Aliyev Bulvarı) is an 860-seat concrete amphitheatre built in the horseshoe form of an ancient theatre, open to the sky with trees behind the top row. İzmir Metropolitan Municipality's culture department programmes it from summer into autumn, and Ozan Çolakoğlu's orchestra played here in September 2026. Concert tickets are ₺₺. Check the city's culture listings before you turn up. Nothing is on in deep winter.

İnciraltı Açıkhava Tiyatrosu, Izmir

Trails above the Balçova dam lake

Balçova Terapi Ormanı in Balçova was designated Türkiye's first therapy forest, 1,802 decares, opened in 2016. Pine and maquis hillside rises to 369 m above the green reservoir lake. Two waymarked dirt trails make up 6 km of walking, one to roofless stone monastery ruins and one to a small waterfall. Take the monastery trail if you only have time for one; the ruins are the clearer destination.

Balçova Terapi Ormanı, Izmir

The site is free and open-air, with no open fires permitted anywhere in it. Schools and sports clubs train here daily, so the lower paths are busiest in the morning.

Fish and rakı on İnciraltı Cad.

Balık Pişiricisi Veli Usta (İnciraltı Cad. 179/A) keeps an iced display of anchovy, red mullet, squid and octopus at the door, and the fish goes straight to the pan and the grill. The house has traded since 1970 and helped set İzmir's fish-and-rakı template. The covered dining area is large, and they take walk-ins and groups alike. It opens 12:00 to 23:00 daily, in the ₺₺₺ band. Note the street number: 179/A is the İnciraltı branch, and that is the one you want.

Balık Pişiricisi Veli Usta (İnciraltı), Izmir

Mercan Restaurant, set back from İnciraltı Cad. in Balçova, is the special-occasion table. The dining room is white-linen in a modern low complex, with a cold-meze trolley of Aegean herbs, and whole sea bass and grilled octopus plated to order. It was founded in 1957 and sits on Türkiye's roll of 100 historic restaurants. Order the levrek lokum and the şevketibostanlı sea bass. Expect well over 1,000 ₺ a head with meze and rakı, in the ₺₺₺₺ band. Reserve. It is the only tourism-licensed food and beverage house in Balçova, and it has event halls on site.

Mercan Restaurant, Izmir

Erdeniz Balık Restaurant (İnciraltı Cad.) is the relaxed rakı table, with open-air terrace seating, a tray of hot and cold meze, buttered prawns in a copper pan, and a bottle of Yeni Rakı and an ice bucket on white paper. It runs 10:00 to midnight every day. That late closing makes it the practical dinner after the cable car. Count on 700 to 1,200 ₺ a head with drinks, and settle in for the evening.

Erdeniz Balık Restaurant, Izmir

A grill garden in Korutürk

Saklı Cennet Mangal & Kahvaltı (Sera Sokak, Korutürk) is a walled garden of 800 m² in a residential back street, long tables under vines and a charcoal grill working lamb and chops. Unlimited meze bowls come with either the breakfast or the grill, and they crowd the table. It opens 08:00 to 22:00 at 500 to 750 ₺ a person. The garden seats up to 500 and runs country weddings and functions, so book ahead.

Saklı Cennet Mangal & Kahvaltı, Izmir

Nargile in the evening

Ottoman İnciraltı (İnciraltı Cad. 30/1), also signed as Ottoman Nargile Atölyesi, is where İnciraltı sits out the evening. It is an open-sided café with glass nargile pipes and coal tongs at low seating, football on a wall screen and a children's play corner to one side. It serves shisha, long coffees and bar food, and the smoking area is the main room. This is not a nightlife quarter. Capacity is 65, they take reservations, and there is valet and parking. Count 600 to 1,000 ₺ a person.

Ottoman İnciraltı (Ottoman Nargile Atölyesi), Izmir

Market mornings in Balçova

Balçova Kapalı Semt Pazarı in Balçova is a covered municipal market hall, trestle tables stacked with Aegean greens, olives, figs and cheese, vendors calling prices under a steel roof. Entry is free. It trades Wednesdays and Saturdays, and mid-morning is tight for anything larger than a pair. Worth the hour. If you miss both days, the Üçkuyular market at the eastern edge of the district runs Saturday and Sunday.

Balçova Kapalı Semt Pazarı, Izmir

Where to stay

Wyndham Grand İzmir Özdilek Thermal & Spa stands directly on the İnciraltı shore road, a 219-room tower with Gulf-facing balconies, indoor and outdoor thermal pools, and a snow fountain and hammam in the Agamemnon spa below. It was the Crowne Plaza İzmir before the rebrand and now pipes the same Agamemnon spring water into its pools. The ÖzdilekPark İzmir mall, with a cinema and bowling, is attached to the building, and the Dokuz Eylül university hospital is 500 m away. The hotel is ₺₺₺₺, and it runs a full convention and wedding operation, so expect conferences and coach groups in the lobby.

Wyndham Grand İzmir Özdilek Thermal & Spa, Izmir

Planning notes

İzmir Teleferik and the museum ships close on Mondays, the market trades only Wednesdays and Saturdays, and the amphitheatre has no programme in deep winter. Book Balçova Termal and Mercan before you travel, check whether a function has taken Saklı Cennet, and carry a card for the cable car.

See the Izmir guide and the Izmir hotel search.

Questions

How much is the Balçova cable car and can I pay cash?

A ride on İzmir Teleferik is 200 ₺ per person, paid at the lower station, and under-fives go free. The station takes no cash, so bring a card or an İzmirim Kart. The line closes Mondays, and the first cabin goes up at 12:30.

What does a thermal session at Balçova Termal cost?

Day-use entry to the thermal pool is 1,250 ₺ per person for 120 minutes, and the water comes in at 34 to 41°C. Book ahead, since some pools rotate out for maintenance, and the last day-use entry is 17:00.

Is the İnciraltı museum worth it with children?

Yes. At İnciraltı Deniz Müzesi you board the Ege frigate and squeeze through the Piri Reis submarine, and the hall ashore holds ship models and brass instruments. Children get in free, adults pay a nominal fee, and it closes Mondays.

Can you visit the Yenikale fort at the end of the İnciraltı shore?

No. The 1666 Yenikale fort, also called Sancakburnu, sits at the western end of the promenade inside a working military zone, so you cannot go in. Walk out to the point for the water and the shoreline instead.

Which day is the Balçova market?

Balçova Kapalı Semt Pazarı trades Wednesdays and Saturdays in a covered municipal hall, and it gets tight by mid-morning. Miss both days and the Üçkuyular market, at the eastern edge of the district, runs Saturday and Sunday.

First published on izmirgetaways.com, the Izmir guide.

More from this chapter

Izmir

  1. Göztepe and Güzelyalı, Izmir's seaward side on footA calm walk down İzmir's south shore, from the Göztepe ferry pier to the İnciraltı submarine. The hours, the fares and the fish-house bookings decide what order you do it in.
  2. Kadifekale and the walk down into old İzmirA free hilltop fortress, a rock-cut Byzantine cistern, a Roman theatre coming out of the slope, and the walk down into Kemeraltı for köfte, söğüş and şambali.
  3. Walking Şirince, the Izmir hill village of lace and wineWalk the sloping bazaar lane, the two free Greek Orthodox churches and the hillside campus where strangers teach mathematics for nothing, and you can be done before the coaches land at 10:00.
  4. Inside the castle walls at Sığacık, Izmir's fishing villagePeople still live inside the walled Ottoman sea-fort, the fishing quay still works, the Sunday market admits only Seferihisar producers, and ancient Teos is five kilometres down the lane.